We loaded up the Shawn's Wave Ski and my Surf Kayak. Headed onto the road and we were on our way to meet up with Chris. He was to meet up with us around 9:30 or so.
Even after getting on the road late we arrived just ahead of Chris. This gave us a chance to check out the conditions, relax for a moment, and get ready for the 4ft - 7ft day of glassy rides.
Seriously was a perfect day. I was alittle nervous because this was my third day this summer in this surf kayak. It would also be my first day trying out my new wetsuit made by pro motion in hood river oregon. By the way, kick ass suit!
So, getting out along the jeddy was easy. Sat out beyond the breaking waves and just checked out the scene. Got use to the waves coming in.
Took me about an hour to get up the nerve to ride a wave. Normally I dont get this timid, but a 6foot drop into a wave then carving turns is a big rush.
So, I edge my self up to the zone where the waves started to stand up and I could see the drop. I saw the perfect wave that was about 5-6 feet, double over head in a kayak, and I took off down the face. I could feel the spiral of the wave off to my left as I dropped the right edge of the kayak into the water. This sent me carving hard to the right as the wave was breaking behind me. I looked up and started to see the wave breaking so I put the right edge in alittle deeper, held the paddle on the water, and shot off the top of the wave. Feeling the water rushing under me on the wave was incredible. I had a huge smile on my face surfing the wave, carving a turn, and not getting smashed in the foam pile.
My smile continued as I dropped into a few more good sized waves and started to curve up and then back down the wave.
Had many good rides and got tossed a few other times. I am learning. Trying to get the hang of things. I do realize one important thing.
Just getting out on the water is what really matters.
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